Stage 3 of 6 · 5–14 days
Pinning
Switching to fruiting conditions so the surface forms knots and pins: fresh air, light, and a surface that stays dewy.
Signs you're at this stage
- The substrate or cake is fully colonized and has had a few days to consolidate.
- Tiny white specks or bumps are appearing on the surface.
- Small pins with darker tips are showing, a few millimetres tall.
What triggers pins
Mycelium forms mushrooms when its surroundings change from the sealed, dark, CO₂-rich conditions of colonization to the conditions near a forest floor surface. Three signals do most of the work: carbon dioxide falling (from ), light, and a surface that stays humid while still letting a little water evaporate. A modest temperature drop helps some growers but is not required for cubensis.
The first visible sign is , tiny dense specks. Over a few days they grow into , also called , with a cap and stem starting to show.
The numbers
- Air temperature
- About 70–78 °F (21–26 °C); steady matters more than exact
- Humidity at pin set
- High: 90–95% in the air, near saturation right at the surface
- Fresh air
- Enough to keep CO₂ low; many growers aim under about 1,000 ppm
- Light
- 12 hours on, 12 off, indirect daylight or a 5,000–6,500 K bulb (Bible, p. 53)
- Days to first pins
- Usually 5–10 days in bulk; PF cakes can show pins within days (Bible, p. 112)
- When to change anything
- Hold steady until pins are pea-sized, about 3–5 mm
Setting up
- Uncover the tub's holes, or open the AIO bag or move cakes into a fruiting chamber.
- Give it light on a 12/12 cycle. Indirect daylight is enough; very little blue light is needed to start pins.
- Check the surface. You want fine droplets like morning dew that slowly come and go. If it goes matte, mist the walls and lid lightly, never straight onto the surface.
- Fan gently once or twice a day if the container has no passive airflow. Do not aim moving air straight at the surface.
- Then mostly leave it alone. Every change you make now is a disturbance.
Surface conditions beat the hygrometer
Experienced growers judge pinning by the surface, not a number. A matte, dull surface means it is drying out, and pins will stall or . Pooled water or big beads that never evaporate mean it is too wet and stale. The target sits between: a fine sheen of droplets that appears, slowly fades, and returns after a light wall mist. Cheap humidity sensors drift by a few percent above 90% RH anyway, so treat their readings as a rough guide.
Humidity and fresh air work against each other. Each burst of fresh air also removes moisture, so a container with lots of airflow needs more water from somewhere, whether a damp perlite floor, a casing or wall misting.
Once pins are set
When most pins reach pea size, the book model lowers humidity slightly, into the mid-to-high 80s, and adds more fresh air, because some evaporation helps young mushrooms mature (Mushroom Cultivator, p. 144). In practice that means opening up a little more and never letting air blow straight at the pins. The fruiting guide covers the days from here to harvest.
Common mistakes
- Misting directly onto pins. Forceful water kills young pins.
- Fanning straight at the surface, drying it out.
- Adding light before the substrate is fully colonized, which causes side pins.
- Changing several settings at once when pins are slow.
What to do next
- Pins showing and growing: move on to fruiting.
- Nothing after 10–14 days: see troubleshooting, under no pins.
- A thick white mat instead of knots: see troubleshooting, under overlay.
Seen something different in your own tub? Add your grow report on the strain you grew. Reports are how these pages get better.
What it looks like
Real photos, credited below each one.

Psilocybe cubensis pins forming across a casing surface.Photo: Mädi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons 
Psilocybe cubensis primordia (pins) emerging from colonized substrate.Photo: Dušan, CC BY-SA 3.0 (listed by Mushroom Observer as "Creative Commons Wikipedia Compatible v3.0"), via Mushroom Observer 
Young Psilocybe cubensis fruits a few days after pinning, caps still dark and closed.Photo: Mädi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Sources
- Psilocybin Mushroom Bible (Haze & Mandrake, 2016), light and humidity for the fruiting chamber, p. 53–55
- Psilocybin Mushroom Bible (Haze & Mandrake, 2016), pins appearing on PF cakes, p. 111–112
- The Mushroom Cultivator (Stamets & Chilton, 1983), pinning model and lowering humidity at pea-size pins, p. 141–144
- The Mushroom Cultivator (Stamets & Chilton, 1983), light that starts pins, p. 147
- Shroomery forum: surface moisture and when to add fresh air
- Shroomery forum: humidity at the pinning surface
Written for this site in our own words from the books and threads above. Where growers disagree, both sides are given. Nothing here is advice about anything other than growing.