Stage 1 of 6 · 2–4 weeks
Inoculation and colonization
Getting spores or culture into sterile grain or PF Tek jars, then waiting out a clean, even colonization.
- 1. Inoculation and colonization
- 2. Spawn to bulk
- 3. Pinning
- 4. Fruiting
- 5. Harvest timing
- 6. Next flush
Signs you're at this stage
- You have sterilized jars or bags that have cooled to room temperature and nothing has gone in yet.
- White fuzz is spreading out from the injection points.
- Some jars are fully white and others still show bare grain or substrate.
What this stage is
puts living genetics, either a spore syringe or , into food that has been sterilized so nothing else is alive in it. is everything that follows: the mycelium spreads through the grain or the brown rice cake until no bare food is left. Almost every contamination problem that shows up later started here, so this is the stage where care pays back the most.
There are two common starting points. PF Tek uses small half-pint jars of brown rice flour and vermiculite that are later fruited as cakes. Grain jars or bags (rye, millet, popcorn or birdseed) become that is later mixed into bulk substrate. The steps below cover both.
The numbers
- PF Tek jar recipe
- About 120 ml vermiculite, 60 ml brown rice flour and 55 g water per half-pint jar (Bible, p. 83)
- Rye per quart jar
- About 220 g dry rye, 200 ml water and a gram of gypsum, left to hydrate a day before cooking (Bible, p. 150–151)
- Sterilizing PF jars
- 15 psi (250 °F / 121 °C) for 20 minutes once the weight starts rocking (Bible, p. 90–91)
- Sterilizing grain
- Longer, scaled to the load: under an hour for a small batch up to about 4 hours for 3 kg of rye at 15 psi (Bible, p. 152–153)
- Spore syringe per PF jar
- About 2 cc, split across four injection points (Bible, p. 95)
- Colonizing temperature
- Room temperature around 70–80 °F (21–27 °C); see the note on warmer advice below
- First growth visible
- A few days from spores; within about a day from liquid culture (Bible, p. 97)
- Full colonization
- About 3–4 weeks for PF jars from spores (Bible, p. 97–98); grain from liquid culture is often faster
Inoculating
- Let jars cool until they feel cold to the touch. Hot grain kills spores and invites bacteria.
- Work in a wiped down with a 1:9 bleach solution, and give the air five to ten minutes to settle before you open anything.
- Flame the needle until it glows, outside the box so the plastic does not melt, then let it cool for a moment. Shake the syringe to spread the spores.
- Inject at the edge of the jar, angled so the tip runs down the glass. That lets you watch growth start from the outside.
- Wipe the injection points again and label every jar with what went in and the date.
Where to keep them
Somewhere dark, raised off the floor and steady in temperature. A closet shelf works. The book behind PF Tek calls about 70 °F (21 °C) fine and warns that cold rooms stall growth (Bible, p. 95). Its own general range for cubensis is 70–80 °F (21–27 °C) (Bible, p. 53). Forum growers often push 80–84 °F for speed, and a few go higher, but the warmer the jar, the better bacteria and green mould do too. Several sources put a contamination ceiling in the low 80s °F, so the safe middle is about 75–78 °F (24–26 °C).
Do not open jars to look. Condensation on the glass and mycelium pulling slightly away from the walls are both normal (Bible, p. 97). Grain jars can be shaken once, when growth covers about a third of the jar, to spread living grain through the rest. PF jars are never shaken.
Reading the jar
- Healthy: bright white growth, either rope-like strands or even, cottony fuzz. Both are normal.
- Clear to amber droplets on white mycelium are . Small amounts mean stress, not infection.
- Grain that looks wet, greasy or grey, a stall at a sharp line and a sour smell are bacteria. Throw the jar out.
- Any green, blue-green, pink, orange or black powder is mould. Do not open it indoors.
- Blue staining where a jar was knocked is bruising, not mould. It sits in the tissue and does not spread as dust.
When is it done
A jar is ready when every surface, the bottom included, is white. Then wait. Mycelium keeps knitting the inside together for several more days after the outside looks finished. The Bible suggests about another week before birthing PF cakes (p. 97–98), and forum growers agree that a few days of after the last bare spot disappears gives faster, more even pins. Grain spawn is best used soon after it is fully colonized; left for weeks it can start pinning inside the jar (Bible, p. 165–166).
Common mistakes
- Inoculating warm jars straight out of the cooker.
- Opening jars to check progress or to sniff them.
- Using a jar that is mostly white but smells off. Bad spawn spoils every tub it touches.
- Keeping jars in a hot spot to speed things up and inviting bacteria instead.
What to do next
- PF Tek cakes: birth, dunk and roll, then move to a fruiting chamber. See containers.
- Grain spawn: mix it into pasteurized bulk substrate. See spawn to bulk.
- Throw out any jar with color or a sour smell before it reaches bulk. One bad jar can ruin a whole tub.
Seen something different in your own tub? Add your grow report on the strain you grew. Reports are how these pages get better.
What it looks like
Real photos, credited below each one.

Psilocybe cubensis spores germinating on agar: a white mycelium patch spreading from the inoculation point.Photo: Rummelsdorf, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons 
Mycelium colonizing wheat grain in jars (Panaeolus cyanescens).Photo: Mädi, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Sources
- Psilocybin Mushroom Bible (Haze & Mandrake, 2016), PF Tek recipe and jar prep, p. 83–91
- Psilocybin Mushroom Bible (Haze & Mandrake, 2016), inoculating and colonizing jars, p. 93–98
- Psilocybin Mushroom Bible (Haze & Mandrake, 2016), grain recipes and sterilizing times, p. 146–153
- Psilocybin Mushroom Bible (Haze & Mandrake, 2016), cubensis temperature range, p. 53
- Shroomery forum: colonization at higher temperatures (grower reports)
- Shroomery forum: recognizing and dealing with contamination
Written for this site in our own words from the books and threads above. Where growers disagree, both sides are given. Nothing here is advice about anything other than growing.